How Do You Improve On Perfection?

The subtle genius of the Togroni, Ralph Lauren's layers and Rachel Kushner

I’m not embarrassed to admit that I considered starting out this week’s letter by stating that “the Negroni made me bitter.” That is, my taste for all things for tart, sour, sharp, biting, but almost always herbaceous, really started when I took a sip of a Negroni. It had one of those perfect square cubes in it. Campari, vermouth and whatever gin it was…