A little over 50 years ago, when pizza was still a relatively novel thing, when there wasn’t a chain like Pizza Hut or Papa John’s in every suburb and few outside of New Haven knew “New Haven-style” was a thing, Calvin Trillin wrote the 1971 New Yorker article “The Ordeal of Fats Goldberg.” Fats Goldberg was a guy named Larry Goldberg who, when Trillin …
